Orientation and Belay Techniques

Equipment list: harnesses, helmets, rope sections, ARCs with carabiner, daisy chains with carabiner, (5) 50-foot ropes and (3) 100-foot ropes on wall, policy contracts, waivers, skills tests

Introductions - Have participants sit in a circle on the climbing area floor.

1. Instructor's names
2. Review of training schedule
3. Expectations for completion (review skills test standards)
4. Explain what an approval card is and how it is to be used
5. Explain helmet waiver and sign

Climbing is Dangerous - Emphasize the seriousness of this part.

1. Simple mistakes and bad consequences
2. You hold the climber's life in your hands
3. It is a no mistake activity 100 per cent of the time

Safety is your responsibility - Hand out policy contracts and review policies with participants explaining the reason(s) for each as you go.

Harness - Hand out harnesses and have the participants watch while you put yours on and demonstrate how to tie in for a climb, belay and anchor. Then have them put their harnesses on.

1. Putting it on
2. Proper fit for harnesses
3. Waist buckle and leg buckles and how they need to be threaded
4. Check each other out!
5. Attachment points
   • Climbing
   • Belaying
   • Anchors

Tying in with a figure 8 follow through - Hand out rope sections and have participants first watch then practice knots.

1. Figure 8 is the strongest knot
2. Start with a simple figure 8
3. Measure correct amount of rope
4. Tie simple figure 8
5. Attach to the correct strong point of harness
6. Retrace the figure 8
7. Tie back-up knot (CMGA back through)
8. Do your double check
   • Harness is snug and over the hips
   • Buckle is threaded correctly
   • Double backed
   • Three inch tail
   • Rope goes through the correct strong points
   • The figure 8 looks like a figure 8
   • Back-up knot is tied (CMGA)

Belaying - Demonstrate these steps to the group then have the group break up evenly with each of the instructors and practice the skills one at a time. Each participant should be run through a rough skills test so they know what's expected.

1. This is a no mistake activity because you have the climber's life in your hands
2. Tools
   • Locking carabiner and its parts
   • Belay tool and its parts
   • Dynamic rope
3. Belay tool set up
4. Attachment to correct strong points of harness
5. Lock the locking carabiner
6. Double check system
   • Harness is snug and over the hips
   • Buckle is threaded correctly
   • Double Backed
   • The carabiner is attached to correct strong points
   • The carabiner is locked (squeeze test)
   • Both the rope and retaining strap go through the locking carabiner
   • The rope goes through only one of the belay slots in the belay tool
   • The belay tool set up so the break hand is set up to the right for a right-handed person, etc.
7. Strong hand is the break hand and can never let go of the rope
8. Other hand is the guide hand
9. Pull slack through the belay device (2 methods)
   • Method #1
     1. Both hands work together
     2. Guide hand pulls slack towards the belay tool
     3. The break hand pulls it through belay device
     4. Guide hand lets go and grabs rope above break hand
     5. Slide break hand back down
     6. Move guide hand back to start
     7. Repeat as needed
   • Method #2
     1. Both hands work together
     2. Both hands pull slack through the belay tool
     3. Brake hand locks off rope
     4. Grab rope just above brake hand with guide hand
     5. Move brake hand just above guide hand
     6. Replace guide hand for taking in more rope
10. Break hand position
    • Firm grip
    • Thumb wrapped around rope
    • Not too close to belay device
    • Low friction hand position
    • High friction hand position
11. Finer points
    • Do not let hair, clothing, etc. get pulled into belay device
    • Do not pull too much slack through (break hand too high)
    • Lock off when climber is not moving
    • Lock off if/when climber falls

You should carefully check your partner's system after you each check your own!

Commands

Belay/Climbing Practice - Demonstrate this series (including commands, a fall, and lowering the climber) with an instructor as belayer and climber then have the participants pair up and take turns as climber and belayer. Climbers should take a fall when their feet reach the belay line and no one should begin climbing until an instructor has checked their set-up.

1. The belayer takes an athletic stance
2. The belayer pulls in any extra slack when the climber says "On Belay" before responding to the climber
3. The climber and belayer exchange commands
4. The climber climbs and the belayer belays
5. If the climber falls or lets go, the belayer should lock off instantly
6. Indications that the climber is or is about to fall
   • The climber says "falling"
   • The rope starts to get tight
   • You see the climber starting the fall/slip
7. The belayer should keep slack to a minimum
8. The belayer should pay close attention to the climber
   • Make sure that no slack builds up
   • Keep the rope tight at the start
   • Make sure the climber stays in line with the top rope anchors especially near corners
9. At the start, the climber could land on the ground if he/she falls low on the route due to slack and rope stretch. The belayer needs to keep the rope tight and the climber should use arms and legs like shock absorbers if he/she falls off low on the route

Lowering the climber at the end of the climb

1. Tighten the rope and remove any slack when the climber says "Tension"
2. Lock off if the climber falls
3. Move the guide hand down to back up the break hand
4. Pump the rope through instead of letting it slide through both hands or going hand over hand
5. Go slow and be in control. During a fast lowering there is a greater chance the belayer can lose control and drop the climber

Back-up Belayer - Explain what a back-up belayer is and when it might be used. Encourage participants to use a back up until they are completely comfortable with their new skills.

The use of a backup belayer is a useful method of backing up a new belayer or a belayer who needs more practice and for programs that have a lower risk threshold. The role of the backup belay is to act as a breaking force on the belay system if the primary belayer makes a mistake and fails to catch the climber if the climber falls. A secondary duty is to observe the safety check to see if both the climber and belayer have set up equipment correctly. A wall supervisor may choose to back up belay you if they are not sure about your mastery of the skills or if they observe you make a mistake. Continue belaying with your focus on the climber and discuss mistakes or improvements after the climber is "Off belay"

Skills Test